Oh La Muu! The Art of Enjoying Estonian Ice Cream in Winter
Now that I think of it, there used to be “street food” back in Soviet times. Of course, there wasn’t much of it, but it…
Revisiting Tallinn’s Best Market: BJT
When I was living in London and exploring at least one of its 300 markets every weekend, I realized that I needed a definition for…
See the Real Tallinn on a Bus
Tallinn’s buses don’t get much respect. I know I often don’t give them the full credit they’re due. After all, buses are the backbone of…
The Changing Seasons of Kalamaja’s Park
My favorite place to watch the seasons change is Kalamaja Kalmistupark (Kalamaja Cemetery Park), the largest open space in my neighborhood. As is the case…
Tallinn’s New Life of Spice
If you were to visit Tallinn from another planet, you might assume that Estonia’s national soup is tom kha gai (chicken galangal soup) given the…
Tallinn’s New Market
Once you get to know Tallinn’s medieval street names, you’ll find that they pretty much mean exactly what they say. For example, Pikk (Long) was…
Taking the Carrot: Or, Seeing Estonia by Train
Since Estonia’s sleek and modern new trains are painted a bright orange, it didn’t take long for them to earn the nickname of “Carrots” (porgand…
Tallinn’s Best Burger
Grillburger. There. I said it. Without beating around the bush. Or plotting an indirect course by going off on multiple tangents. Or heading on a…
Saaremaa: A Most Estonian Island
Guess the time seems about right to share some additional selections from my very first “blog” known as Radio Free EAJ. When I was living…
Finding My Fish Flat
“How much land does a man need?” Leo Tolstoy asks in his famous story with the same name (Много ли человеку земли нужно?). While I…
Choosing Kalamaja
Rarely a week goes by without someone wanting me to know that “Kopli is the new Kalamaja” or “Pelgulinn is the next Kalamaja” or “X…
Tallinn’s Glorious Sourdough Reformation
There’s always something in the air. And that something almost always includes a few spores of wild yeast. These days, some of those activist spores…
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